“How do I perform a stained glass repair?”

We here at JDT Studio are more concerned about the preservation of historic stained glass windows than we are about making money — to the point where we lose business by telling our clients how to repair their own stained glass. However, we are definitely willing to put our tens-of-thousands of accumulated stained glass repair hours to work if you would prefer that our company repairs your window, or set of windows, for you. Otherwise, to DIY, read on to learn the basics of both “false-leading” and “glass-panel- replacement”.

"Step 0: ASSESS the situation"

Even before “Step 1” the essential first step to stained glass repair is to determine whether or not the broken piece in question should be false-leaded or replaced entirely. False-leading is the act of severing a piece of lead came in half and placing it over a cracked piece of glass in an attempt to disguise it amongst all of the other lead lines in the window. Glass-panel-replacement, on the other hand, is just like it sounds: replacing a broken panel of glass with a new or identical panel. The choice really comes down to personal preference, as both methods can hurt the value of the window if done incorrectly; false-leading across a face or hand, for example, will noticeably stand out, though it keeps the entire window authentic with the original antique glass panels. In contrast, having an identical, reproduction face or hand created can be more visually appealing, you will lose the authenticity of the antique stained glass window. As a rule of thumb, if there are 3+ cracks in a single glass panel [also known as a “spider-web crack” or a “shatter”] the entire panel should be replaced. You can usually get away with false-leading 1 to 2 cracks without drawing too much suspicion.

"Step 1: PREPARE the lead came"

Creating a false-lead, also known as a “flange” or “dutchman”, is a fairly simple process when equipped with the right tools. Measure and cut a piece of lead came that has the same width as the other lead throughout the rest of the stained glass window. When cutting the came, make sure that you start out with a piece that is about an inch or two longer than the actual crack — you can always cut more off later. Using a small lead snips, cut into one of the ends as if you were trying to cut the entire thing in half into two long strips. Take two pliers or vice grips and attach them to both sides of the newly-made cut. Separate the lead came into two strips by pulling in opposite directions. You will end up with one strip of lead came that is smooth and flat and a second strip that is ridged and unusable for the intended purpose.

"Step 2: MOUNT the lead came"

Place the smooth, flat piece of lead over the crack, bending it to shape if the crack is not perfectly straight, and then cut it down to size. Once the lead strip is the exact size and shape of the covered crack, tape it down to the window using blue painters tape. Using a Dremel with an abrasion attachment or simply using an abrasive brush, clean the ends of the strip as well as the lead that it will be adhering to.

"Step 3: SOLDER the lead came"

"Step 4: ANTIQUE the lead came"

Clean off any remaining flux with a soft, clean cloth. Using gloves and a respirator, apply liquid patina [also known as “black”] to the lead, making sure to not get any on the glass or your skin. The longer the liquid patina sits on the lead, the darker it will become. Once the new lead reaches a hue matching that of the rest of the original lead, use another clean cloth to wipe off the remaining liquid patina.

"Step 0: ASSESS the situation"

Even before “Step 1” the essential first step to stained glass repair is to determine whether or not the broken piece in question should be false-leaded or replaced entirely. False-leading is the act of severing a piece of lead came in half and placing it over a cracked piece of glass in an attempt to disguise it amongst all of the other lead lines in the window. Glass-panel-replacement, on the other hand, is just like it sounds: replacing a broken panel of glass with a new or identical panel. The choice really comes down to personal preference, as both methods can hurt the value of the window if done incorrectly; false-leading across a face or hand, for example, will noticeably stand out, though it keeps the entire window authentic with the original antique glass panels. In contrast, having an identical, reproduction face or hand created can be more visually appealing, you will lose the authenticity of the antique stained glass window. As a rule of thumb, if there are 3+ cracks in a single glass panel [also known as a “spider-web crack” or a “shatter”] the entire panel should be replaced. You can usually get away with false-leading 1 to 2 cracks without drawing too much suspicion.

"Step 1: REMOVE old panel"

Before you do anything, immediately cover the crack or shatter with clear tape in order to retain the glass piece’s shape for later tracing or recreation. Begin by flipping the window panel over to the backside that typically is not visible. Using a thin, flat tool, such as a sharp chisel, wedge the tool between the glass and the lead came and begin to slowly pry upwards in a clockwise manner. Continue to pry the lead up a little at a time while going around the perimeter of the broken glass piece until all of the lead is sticking up and the glass piece can be removed easily. You may need to put the tool perpendicular with the glass and lightly tap against it with a hammer as to flatten the lead out and create a wide birth for the broken glass piece to come out.

"Step 2: RETRACE panel…"

If it is a matter of simply recreating a plain, colored piece of glass, you can find sheets of replacement glass at a local hobby or glass store. In this case, put the broken piece of glass on top of the replacement glass sheet and trace the outside edges with a sharpie. Using a well-oiled glass cutter begin to make cuts and breaking the excess off as you go. The edges may not end up very smooth but a few runs on a diamond-bit glass grinder can take care of that problem in no time.

"Step 2: ...or RECREATE old panel"

This option can run a hefty price but may be the only option if the piece in question is a cracked or shattered painted face, hand, foot, animal, garment, text, icon, etc. Remove the piece as described in “Step 1” and take the broken painted piece to a local stained glass studio to be replicated. Though the glass may not be original, some studios still have the capability to create a near-exact replica to the original. Once the new piece has been painted and fired in the kiln, it will be ready for installation.

"Step 3: INSTALL new panel"

Regardless of which “Step 2” you chose, the process of installing the new panel of glass will be quite the same. Slowly lower the new glass panel into the exposed, empty lead space where the broken piece was taken from. Using just your fingers, press the lead back down towards the glass. If necessary, use extremely light taps with a ball-peen hammer to mold the lead back into place. Apply liquid patina [“black”] to the affected lead area and wipe off clean.

“Can I get further assistance?”

As with any delicate art-related project, it takes trial and error to become good at that particular craft. Trial and error can be great teachers, but the problem in this case is that those errors can be costly. With a poor false-leading or glass-panel-replacement job you could potentially devalue your stained glass window by hundreds to thousands of dollars. Whether you have 1 window or 100… and are simply looking for further instruction on repair or would like to discuss using JDT Studio's stained glass repair and restoration services, please don’t hesitate to email us! We would love to help in any way that we can.

“How do I remove a stained glass window?”

Listed below are the general steps for a typical stained glass window removal for the average DIY-er. Though it is possible to perform a removal on your own, please note that one small crack during a removal attempt could result in the loss of thousands of dollars in value. We would recommend using a company like ourselves who have removed thousands of antique church stained glass windows of every caliber; from inexpensive home windows… to record-breaking-sale Louis Comfort Tiffany windows.

"Step 1: REMOVE the stops"

Using a wide, flat tool such as a putty knife, wide chisel, or flat multipurpose knife, gently pry the wood stop away from the wood frame on all sides, being sure to note which stop needs to be removed first. The first stop to be removed will always be the stop that you can clearly see is not being hindered by another stop holding it in. While prying a stop up, use small amounts of equal force along the entire piece of wood, repeating as necessary until the stop is free.

"Step 2: SCRAPE the resin"

Once all stops have been removed, there will typically be a type of dried resin, or caulk, holding the window’s border lead in place. If the resin is loose enough, feel free to use the multi-purpose knife’s pointed edge to carefully scrap it out. Be sure to have adequate ventilation as well as a respiratory mask, gloves, and other protective coverings as the resulting dust may contain asbestos or lead particles. It can be extremely dangerous to undertake this sort of project without taking all of the proper safety precautions.

"Step 3: DECIDE about the bar"

In most cases, especially with larger stained glass windows, there will be a steel re-bar [“reinforcing bar”] holding the window in place, which is designed for weight distribution in order to prevent sagging. If you are lucky, the bar will only be built into the stops, which would mean that the bar became free once the stops were removed. Unfortunately, that type of a removal is the exception to the rule and most bars are embedded deep into the wooden frame itself. If you need to save the frame, the only option is to sever the copper wires that attach the bar to the window and then Dremel the steel bar in half so that it can slide out from both sides of the frame. Note that this will put the window in grave danger as one slip with the Dremel could shatter the window. The alternative option would be to chisel into the wood frame around the bar’s location, allowing the bar to slide straight out with the window. Obviously the latter method will damage the frame as well as put the glass at risk since the pressure caused by chiseling out the wood will subsequently put pressure on the bar which will ultimately put pressure on the glass and possibly crack or shatter it.

"Step 4: PULL the nails"

"Step 5: LOOSEN the glass"

At this point, due to the expansion of the wood over the years, the panels will still be tight. Once the wood stops, caulk, and nails have all been removed, you will need to either grab the bar or [if you’ve already removed the bar] grab the bar’s remaining copper wires and begin to gently rock the window out by pushing and pulling the window in and out at a slow-yet-steady pace. The remaining debris should start to come loose and the window will start to loosen. If no good handhold is available, an industrial glass suction cup can sometimes be mounted on the panel and used to help provide leverage. In any situation, be careful to pull only with the appropriate amount of force as pulling too hard while the window is still caught on some caulk or on a nail will result in damaged glass, while pulling too softly will yield no movement at all.

“What are the risks involved in removing an antique stained glass window without the aid of a professional?”

Antique stained glass window removals always have their quirks because no 2 windows were installed the same way. They can be tricky and, without the right experience, can lead to mishaps such as cracks and bowing, which in-turn will lead to a major devaluation of the window’s overall worth. There is some merit in performing your own stained glass window removal, and, depending on your skill level, quite possible; however, the risk can easily outweighs the reward. Even the slightest hairline crack that forms through a face, hand, feet, etc of a figural window can devalue the window by one thousand dollars or more instantly due to re-fabrication costs of the newly-broken piece. Furthermore, the window will now be even less valuable since the new face, hand, feet, etc will be unoriginal to the rest of the antique glass. Even the smallest border glass crack would need to be repaired in a stained glass repair shop at a labor rate of around eighty dollars an hour.

“How can JDT Studio aid in my window removal?”

JDT Studio has extensive resources and experience to remove any number of windows for you… safely. Our team has dealt with all sorts of unseemly window removals; from frail windows that literally fall apart in your hands… to overly-secure windows welded directly into a steel frame that require the use of a 7” industrial Dremel blade hovering at 4,000-RPMs just 10 centimeters above a 1/3rd million dollar window to free the panels. Talk about nerve-racking, but JDT Studio pulled off both jobs [and countless others] without a hitch.

“Where to get an appraisal for a historic stained glass window such as a Tiffany?”

"What is the difference between insurance value, actual market value, retail value, and wholesale value?"

“What is the problem with insurance value?”

Stained glass is classified as “artwork” and therefore the price is a bit ambiguous— there can be historical value, heritage value, and even personal value attached to a piece of artwork. Insurance companies will tend to resort to a textbook price-per-square-foot appraisal, but this is dangerous as they will appraise a plain, 10’ geometric window the same as a 10’ Louis Comfort Tiffany stained glass window, as both windows have the same square footage. Even if the insurance company does distinguish a difference between the plain window and the Tiffany window, they will still quote the window at an absurdly high rate since they do not want to undervalue the stained glass. It’s also good to keep in mind that the insurance company makes more money the higher they appraise an item at.

"How can antique windows be repurposed and fit into new builds?"

Stained glass windows can be framed by many talented carpenters world-wide, however JDT Studio can save you time and money by performing the framing ourselves prior to shipping your window to its final destination. On top of this, we can also alter stained glass windows [within reason] to help better-fit any size constraints in its new home. Email us to discuss custom window alterations and framing further.

“Can a stained glass window be altered to fit my opening?”

Ideally we prefer to get in on the ground floor of a church being built so that a window can be drawn into the architectural renderings and transported “as-is” from its old home to its new home. Every situation that we have come across has not been ideal, however, and sometimes a window needs to be shortened, heightened, narrowed, or widened. JDT Studio can perform all of the aforementioned to help fit a window into your existing opening.

“How do I get my stained glass window framed?”

As stated, there are many carpenters or craftsman in any area of the world who can help you create a frame for your newly purchased stained glass window[s]. However, if you prefer, we can save you the headache of trying to locate a good carpenter by using a trusted local company here in Minnesota to frame your window prior to shipping. This will result in additional fees associated with the framing, as well as a larger S&H fee due to the increased size of the crate, but will overall save you time and money since you will be receiving a finished product.

~JDT STUDIO STAINED GLASS SERVICES OVERVIEW~

Having performed countless antique Tiffany Church stained glass window mockups, appraisals, removals, restorations, custom framings, and installations, we can help you no matter what state (physically or geographically) your windows are in.

The services that we provide are the following:

Stained glass BUYING
Stained glass SELLING
Stained glass APPRAISAL
Stained glass REMOVAL
Stained glass RESTORATION
Stained glass CRATING
Stained glass ARCHIVING
Stained glass STORAGE
Stained glass TRANSPORT
Stained glass INSTALLATION

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